Daughter, at Brunswick East Pizzeria by Tipo 00 and Osteria Ilaria Crew

Brunswick East does not lack pizza. Along the 2.5-kilometer stretch of Lygon Street and its continuation, Holmes Street, there is Bar Romantica, 400 Gradi, Compass, Mr. Wilkinson, Abruzzo Club, I Carusi and others.

And yet, Luke Skidmore and chefs Andreas Papadakis and Alberto Fava – the trio behind the leading CBD restaurants Tipo 00 and Osteria Ilaria – are quietly confident that they have something to add to the strip. In April, they open Figlia (which means “daughter” in Italian), a rustic 70-seat pizzeria at 331 Lygon Street.

The now boarding place was formerly home to another pizzeria, Cucina 333, but the incoming tenants inherited nothing in the way of ovens or other useful equipment. The building was empty, which suits them just fine. They will soon install a hybrid gas / wood stove built by the Australian company Beech. Skidmore says they chose this model in the name of consistency: The gas keeps the temperature stable, while smoldering tree trunks provide the desired smokyness.

There will also be a chargrill on site for burning proteins and vegetables. Because even though this is a pizzeria, it will also be a place to stop by for a few dishes before dinner and a glass of wine.

“Andreas is very big on snacks,” Skidmore says. “There will be lots of vegetables, lots of small dishes, lots of secondi dishes.”

The pizza dough will be sourdough, naturally fermented, with an extra touch of cheese whey to lighten things up. And here things get really exciting: The whey comes from Grana, a deli next door, run by Osteria Ilaria’s current pastry chef, Lucy Whitlow. Whitlow began making cheese to pass the days of lockdown and impressed her employers so much that they make it her most important concert with dedicated aging cabinets.

The group plans to pick up milk from “maybe three” Victorian dairies and do interesting experiments like making exactly the same brie using dairy products from these different producers and letting customers taste the difference. It is similar to how breweries like Danish Mikkeller have made the same basic beer with several different hop cultivars to highlight their individual character.

Whitlow has also played with Stilton and Tom, a Swiss / French aged semi-hard variant, and experimental treatments such as storing discarded mandarin peels or washing the rinds with koji, the flavorful microbe responsible for fermenting soy sauce, miso and sake.

These creations will be available to take home from Grana along with paninis, homemade salumi, wine and filter coffee. Down the field, the team will consider expanding the range to include pasta, bulk olive oil, chicken stock and other pantry items.

Figlia and Grana opens at 331 Lygon Street, Brunswick East in April 2022.

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